i'll get it for you.
('tis what i've been doing the last 2 months...i am gearhead man).
Wednesday, 21 January 2009
Friday, 16 January 2009
How the swearword did I get sucked into smiley land?
I used to be so anti-smiley, anti-exclamation. I wanted the words to say what they mean.
But now I read back what I'm writing to people, and I see smileys. I see exclamation marks where I'm not even meant to be shouting.
This has been caused by an excessive amount of internet communication these last few months. I am subliminally being forced to use these wretched means of inoffensiveness. I am submissing. I am surrendering to the masses.
At least I'm not using the wink one yet.
If I do, then I have well and truly conformed.
Hit me, really hard...now.
But now I read back what I'm writing to people, and I see smileys. I see exclamation marks where I'm not even meant to be shouting.
This has been caused by an excessive amount of internet communication these last few months. I am subliminally being forced to use these wretched means of inoffensiveness. I am submissing. I am surrendering to the masses.
At least I'm not using the wink one yet.
If I do, then I have well and truly conformed.
Hit me, really hard...now.
Monday, 15 December 2008
gallery: landscape
Wednesday, 10 December 2008
Which DSLR?
Below I have listed the pros and cons of €200 DSLR's (Ebay price) that are important to me personally. Each pro gets a point, each con gets a minus. I used the spec sheet and feature set, and the best camera reviews on the net (dpreview.com) to identify what the pros and cons for me might be.
I chose one camera from each manufacturer. This camera had to have an average minimum get-me price of around €200 or less (a darren-price, not necessarily the average price)...which makes it realistic for me to get one at some point.
Anything not listed in the Pros or Cons just isn't deemed important enough for me to consider. For example: poor white balance performance, moire artifacts, selectable high ISO ratings, rugged body, pixel-count etc. - these things are not worthy of a point either way.
But things like: poor high iso performance, loud shutter, no onboard flash, fast write times, dust-busters, compatibility with my current lenses etc - these things will get a plus or minus point, as they are relevant and important to me. I have also limited the superlatives to 'good' and 'poor'...for to do otherwise without actually having used the cameras myself would be innaccurate.
For anyone else reading (fancy that?), a little confirmation of what a couple of the terms might mean:
- good or poor noise management: poor means very noisy high ISO's and/or poorly-implemented noise reduction (loses too much fine detail). Good means detail is kept at high ISO's and that the noise at high ISO's is either appealing (like film grain, not coloured mottle) or is kept clean.
- good or poor resolution: good means when you zoom in on a picture, or you print big, the finer details are present and correct, and not smeared out or pixellated as poor would mean (the leaves of the tree in the background look like leaves when you zoom into them).
- long exposures poor/good: if poor, then either the camera has no dark frame subtraction (having this helps clean away hot pixels - red, green and blue - from a long exposure) or the camera software reduces the hot pixels poorly, leaving a soft image and a blotchy night sky. If the long exposure is good, it means the camera can take a clean, sharp night image without any hot pixels (effective dark frame subtraction, sometimes called noise reduction - this is not related to ISO noise).
- good or poor colour: meaning the colours are left natural and neutral, or can be vibrant enough to be appealing. If poor then the colour tones negatively do not compare well with what your eyes see.
- good or poor dynamic range: if this is listed then it means that the camera has more or less dynamic range than most other DSLR's in that price range.
- fast/slow operation: generally means how does the camera react to function settings: record review, flash power, power on/off, switching menus or shooting modes etc. Note that "fast/slow write times" to the memory card or "burst mode" pros or cons are separate entities to "fast/slow operation".
I will start with the worst performer, and work my way up.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Samsung GX-1S (note: the only camera listed here without a dpr review, so I used the other usual suspects to gain an overview...it seems this camera is very similar or almost identical to the Pentax ist DS)
Pros:
- fast operation
Cons:
- poorly performing autofocus, especially in low light
- generally has an average image quality
Total score:
-1
Conclusion:
The quintessential average camera.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sigma SD-10
Pros:
- very cheap, can be had for around €100
- sensor dust protection
- fast operation
- good autofocus performance
- good resolution
Cons:
- bulb function limited to 30 seconds
- slow write times
- long exposures poor
- poor noise management
- no onboard flash
Total score:
0
Conclusion:
Might be an interesting camera to try out, an almost minus point was it only having the Sigma SA mount...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sony Alpha A100
Pros:
- has a "SteadyShot" function, helps stabilise the exposure with slower shutter speeds
- good resolution
- good colour
- good dynamic range
- fast write times
Cons:
- loud shutter
- poor noise management
- long exposures poor
Total score:
2
Conclusion:
Has potential - but when noise is poor, the image can really suffer.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pentax K100D
Pros:
- proper image stabilisation
- good resolution
- good noise management
- good autofocus performance
Cons:
- loud shutter
Total score:
3
Conclusion:
Very interesting choice, with useful plus points...and no major cons speak against it either.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Panasonic L10
Pros:
- uses the Four-Thirds mount, for which I have the most lenses
- up to 60-second manual exposure
- live-view
- live-view further enhanced by a vari-angle LCD display
- sensor dust protection
- good resolution
- good colour
- good dynamic range
Cons:
- loud shutter
- viewfinder poor
- poor noise management
Total score:
5
Conclusion:
A good effort with lots of plusses, but viewfinder and noise are important too.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D
Pros:
- has an anti-shake function which is useful for tripod and other slow shutter work
- good noise management
- good resolution
- good colour
- good viewfinder
Cons:
(no important or relevant cons)
Total score:
5
Conclusion:
An unusual and worthy choice with no major weaknesses.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fuji S2 Pro
Pros:
- good noise management
- good resolution
- good colour
- good autofocus performance
- fast operation
- good dynamic range
- can be had for as little as €150
Cons:
- viewfinder poor
Total score:
6
Conclusion:
An excellent camera with lots of plusses relating to the image itself.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nikon D70
Pros:
- onboard flash allows flash sync of 1/500
- good noise management
- good resolution
- good colour
- fast operation
- can be had for as little as €150
Cons:
(no important or relevant cons)
Total score:
6
Conclusion:
A very solid performer, literally can't go wrong with the Nikon.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Olympus E-1
Pros:
- uses the Four-Thirds mount, for which I have the most lenses
- up to 60-second manual exposure
- good viewfinder (100% coverage, x1.1 magnification)
- sensor dust protection
- quiet shutter
- fast write times
- good colour
- can be had for as little as €130
Cons:
- poor noise management
- no onboard flash
Total score:
6
Conclusion:
It's a shame there's no flash, and that the noise is inexplicably an issue with a 5mp 18x13 sensor - but the pros this camera has are very important and useful features...the open question remains: is the image quality at least as good as the other 6-pointers?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Canon 20D
Pros:
- manages 5 frames per second in burst mode, up to 23 frames
- fast operation (including instant power on)
- some sensor dust protection due to the nature of the CMOS sensor
- good noise management
- good resolution
- good colour
- good autofocus performance
- long exposures good
Cons:
- loud shutter
- poor sharpening algorithms (appear cheap, or fake)
Total score:
6
Conclusion:
An immense camera, the number one choice for action/sports shoot.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And for argument's sake, let's also objectively include my own DSLR.
Olympus E-510
Pros:
- uses the Four-Thirds mount, for which I have the most lenses
- proper image stabilisation
- live-view
- sensor dust protection
- up to 60-second manual exposure
- good resolution
- long exposures good
- fast operation
- fast write times
Cons:
- poor dynamic range
- viewfinder poor
Total score:
7
Conclusion:
Ha! Mine wins!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Overall conclusion:
I was actually surprised my own camera got the most points, but it is a mighty fine camera, and fits in this group nicely as its price is just a little over €200 (darren ebay hunting price). I do like variety tho', and will likely use one or two of the cameras listed above at some point.
As of today I have indeed effectively swapped it..for the Olympus E-1.
I think later on in 2009, I'll be tempted by the Canon.
I chose one camera from each manufacturer. This camera had to have an average minimum get-me price of around €200 or less (a darren-price, not necessarily the average price)...which makes it realistic for me to get one at some point.
Anything not listed in the Pros or Cons just isn't deemed important enough for me to consider. For example: poor white balance performance, moire artifacts, selectable high ISO ratings, rugged body, pixel-count etc. - these things are not worthy of a point either way.
But things like: poor high iso performance, loud shutter, no onboard flash, fast write times, dust-busters, compatibility with my current lenses etc - these things will get a plus or minus point, as they are relevant and important to me. I have also limited the superlatives to 'good' and 'poor'...for to do otherwise without actually having used the cameras myself would be innaccurate.
For anyone else reading (fancy that?), a little confirmation of what a couple of the terms might mean:
- good or poor noise management: poor means very noisy high ISO's and/or poorly-implemented noise reduction (loses too much fine detail). Good means detail is kept at high ISO's and that the noise at high ISO's is either appealing (like film grain, not coloured mottle) or is kept clean.
- good or poor resolution: good means when you zoom in on a picture, or you print big, the finer details are present and correct, and not smeared out or pixellated as poor would mean (the leaves of the tree in the background look like leaves when you zoom into them).
- long exposures poor/good: if poor, then either the camera has no dark frame subtraction (having this helps clean away hot pixels - red, green and blue - from a long exposure) or the camera software reduces the hot pixels poorly, leaving a soft image and a blotchy night sky. If the long exposure is good, it means the camera can take a clean, sharp night image without any hot pixels (effective dark frame subtraction, sometimes called noise reduction - this is not related to ISO noise).
- good or poor colour: meaning the colours are left natural and neutral, or can be vibrant enough to be appealing. If poor then the colour tones negatively do not compare well with what your eyes see.
- good or poor dynamic range: if this is listed then it means that the camera has more or less dynamic range than most other DSLR's in that price range.
- fast/slow operation: generally means how does the camera react to function settings: record review, flash power, power on/off, switching menus or shooting modes etc. Note that "fast/slow write times" to the memory card or "burst mode" pros or cons are separate entities to "fast/slow operation".
I will start with the worst performer, and work my way up.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Samsung GX-1S (note: the only camera listed here without a dpr review, so I used the other usual suspects to gain an overview...it seems this camera is very similar or almost identical to the Pentax ist DS)
Pros:
- fast operation
Cons:
- poorly performing autofocus, especially in low light
- generally has an average image quality
Total score:
-1
Conclusion:
The quintessential average camera.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sigma SD-10
Pros:
- very cheap, can be had for around €100
- sensor dust protection
- fast operation
- good autofocus performance
- good resolution
Cons:
- bulb function limited to 30 seconds
- slow write times
- long exposures poor
- poor noise management
- no onboard flash
Total score:
0
Conclusion:
Might be an interesting camera to try out, an almost minus point was it only having the Sigma SA mount...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sony Alpha A100
Pros:
- has a "SteadyShot" function, helps stabilise the exposure with slower shutter speeds
- good resolution
- good colour
- good dynamic range
- fast write times
Cons:
- loud shutter
- poor noise management
- long exposures poor
Total score:
2
Conclusion:
Has potential - but when noise is poor, the image can really suffer.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pentax K100D
Pros:
- proper image stabilisation
- good resolution
- good noise management
- good autofocus performance
Cons:
- loud shutter
Total score:
3
Conclusion:
Very interesting choice, with useful plus points...and no major cons speak against it either.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Panasonic L10
Pros:
- uses the Four-Thirds mount, for which I have the most lenses
- up to 60-second manual exposure
- live-view
- live-view further enhanced by a vari-angle LCD display
- sensor dust protection
- good resolution
- good colour
- good dynamic range
Cons:
- loud shutter
- viewfinder poor
- poor noise management
Total score:
5
Conclusion:
A good effort with lots of plusses, but viewfinder and noise are important too.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D
Pros:
- has an anti-shake function which is useful for tripod and other slow shutter work
- good noise management
- good resolution
- good colour
- good viewfinder
Cons:
(no important or relevant cons)
Total score:
5
Conclusion:
An unusual and worthy choice with no major weaknesses.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fuji S2 Pro
Pros:
- good noise management
- good resolution
- good colour
- good autofocus performance
- fast operation
- good dynamic range
- can be had for as little as €150
Cons:
- viewfinder poor
Total score:
6
Conclusion:
An excellent camera with lots of plusses relating to the image itself.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nikon D70
Pros:
- onboard flash allows flash sync of 1/500
- good noise management
- good resolution
- good colour
- fast operation
- can be had for as little as €150
Cons:
(no important or relevant cons)
Total score:
6
Conclusion:
A very solid performer, literally can't go wrong with the Nikon.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Olympus E-1
Pros:
- uses the Four-Thirds mount, for which I have the most lenses
- up to 60-second manual exposure
- good viewfinder (100% coverage, x1.1 magnification)
- sensor dust protection
- quiet shutter
- fast write times
- good colour
- can be had for as little as €130
Cons:
- poor noise management
- no onboard flash
Total score:
6
Conclusion:
It's a shame there's no flash, and that the noise is inexplicably an issue with a 5mp 18x13 sensor - but the pros this camera has are very important and useful features...the open question remains: is the image quality at least as good as the other 6-pointers?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Canon 20D
Pros:
- manages 5 frames per second in burst mode, up to 23 frames
- fast operation (including instant power on)
- some sensor dust protection due to the nature of the CMOS sensor
- good noise management
- good resolution
- good colour
- good autofocus performance
- long exposures good
Cons:
- loud shutter
- poor sharpening algorithms (appear cheap, or fake)
Total score:
6
Conclusion:
An immense camera, the number one choice for action/sports shoot.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And for argument's sake, let's also objectively include my own DSLR.
Olympus E-510
Pros:
- uses the Four-Thirds mount, for which I have the most lenses
- proper image stabilisation
- live-view
- sensor dust protection
- up to 60-second manual exposure
- good resolution
- long exposures good
- fast operation
- fast write times
Cons:
- poor dynamic range
- viewfinder poor
Total score:
7
Conclusion:
Ha! Mine wins!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Overall conclusion:
I was actually surprised my own camera got the most points, but it is a mighty fine camera, and fits in this group nicely as its price is just a little over €200 (darren ebay hunting price). I do like variety tho', and will likely use one or two of the cameras listed above at some point.
As of today I have indeed effectively swapped it..for the Olympus E-1.
I think later on in 2009, I'll be tempted by the Canon.
Tuesday, 18 November 2008
How I photograph spiders
I'm a spiderfan so would never photograph dead or prone ones out of respect. I photograph them as naturally as possible.
For the coming Spring and Summer, I would like to try the f2 on the ZD 50mm for daylight spider shoots.
I generally go out at night armed with a torch and the camera and macro lens (currently Olympus E-510 + OM 3.5/50 macro), sometimes with a 25mm tube too, which gives me 1-1 ratio. I then look for them, mostly near bridges and water...set to f11 and 1/4 or 1/16 flash at 1/180 sync with the lens set to its minimum focussing distance of 23cm. I view through the viewfinder and use the torch on the spider to check I'm getting it sharp. I then fire away.
Some spiders dance, some are in web where the wind is swinging them about. Some stay still. Some retreat into mini-caves. Most of my spider photos are of ones that were moving, as their body positions are interesting and different to what you normally see in spider pictures.
According to my research on the web and in my own experience, some spiders are at worst temporarily stunned or disorientated after the series of flashes at such close proximities, leaving them possibly open to predators...but as it's night there are no birds about...leaving me with a fairly clear conscience for immortalising them in photographs. I try to avoid flash for most other animals, and children too.
For every 100 releases I'll have maybe 40 that are sharp, and 20 that I like enough to smooth over on Photoshop and save to library. Maybe 5 of those will get uploaded to the internet.
All my spiders are never bigger than the average fingernail, see here for more (some shot with Canon compact):
For the coming Spring and Summer, I would like to try the f2 on the ZD 50mm for daylight spider shoots.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
